Nirma Rahayu: i have the same problem on my 04 honda accord, luckly i got it solved…the problem is in the MICU its the under dash fuse relay box, under the driver side dash, you need to remove the micu and replace or repair the double relay soldered on the circuit board, what i did is i remove that relay,unsolder it from the circuit board, you can see that relay beside the white connector,(RLY 1 – its a TAIKO TB2-100P 12VDC), try to knock it a bit strong to remove the jammed contacts, give a supply and check the contacts if it works or just replace it, it will take you less than an hour for an expert, and just take your time for beginers, i hope it helps…
RandyChoi: Thanks Nirma, I finally fixed it. There is a replacement relay from Panasonic 20602K1 0210 Japan. ACTB31A35 doing the same job as the Taiko TP2-100P 12VDC.
2012-11-16 The power door lock system fixed itself – The system started to work a few days ago for no reason. The temperature was cooler, 40+ degrees, may be that did it. Who said Honda electrical system is bullet proof?
2012-05-06 The actuator is not the problem – we bought a new one an tried it, it didn’t work – have no idea where the problem lies – until we find the problem, if you know, please let us know… thanks.
Our mother’s Accord door locks don’t work any more, with remote or key or power door lock switch, unlock all doors, don’t lock any door. All doors must be locked manually. According to the internet helps, it’s likely to be the “left-front” (driver side) door lock actuator failing to operate. I’m not sure how they designed the circuit, but it doesn’t seem logical, anyhow, we will try to replace the door actuator to see if it fixes the problem. Autozone has doorman 746-367 for $29 (life time warranty), Amazon has it for $19.25. Since Autozone is close by, we ordered it from there. There are differences between the 2-door (black) and the 4-door (white and connectors are different), make sure you get the right one.
For the driver side, the door lock actuator is connected to the door lock hinge mechanism, we have to remove the whole unit (unless there’s other way that I don’t know about, at least nothing on the internet). Taking off the door panel is very easy, just 3 screws need to be removed, and unsnap the plastic pins around the edges of the door panel, use a screw driver with a towel to pry one out first then use fingers to pull the panel out one pin at a time.
When all snap on pins around the panel are out, just push the panel up and lift it out of the window. Remove the door latch cable (make sure to put it back after the job is done), the door switch panel cables and the door light cable to remove the panel completely out. Disconnect the battery or remove the bulb.
Remove the door switch panel by press the lock tab and slide it out completely from the door panel for testing the actuator, if replace the actuator only, no need to remove.
Now we’re ready to remove the door lock assembly, the whole unit has 3 metal connecting rods attached to it, we need to detach all 3 to get the unit out. The metal window channel guide will be in the way, we need to move it up and rest it on the round bar inside the door. We need 10mm socket wrench or box wrench to remove the channel guide. When the bolt is out, hold the bottom of the bar and pull it down lightly out of the frame, then it will be loose to move to the round bar and rest it there.
Now we can see the first connecting rod inside the door, unhook the lock and slide the rod out. The next one is the key lock rod which we need to remove the side cover to see it, the plastic lock is green.
The next rod is the door key connection, we have to remove the rubber plug cover on the side of the door, look inside to unsnap the green lock and remove the rod. It’s hard to see, but it’s there.
Now, we need to remove the 3 big philip screws hold the door lock, remove the door lock rod and cable then slide out the whole door lock and actuator combo.
Now, we can unsnap the door handle cable holder and remove the lock and actuator combo
We need to remove the rod and slide the actuator out.
We bought a new one, removed the cables, hooked it up and it didn’t work, it seems like the lock power doesn’t get to the actuator from the switch or remote or key. We can hear the relay click from the fuse box under the knee bolster on the driver side, but very low, the unlock relay clicks really hard and it works. It seems like the lock relay is not functioning.
Remove the door panel, the lock mechanism, the screw holding the lock cable to the actuator to have some room on the actuator itself to remove the 2 electrical connector, hook the new actuator with the electrical cable, press the door switch to fake the door close, turn the lock on and off to see if the actuator flip on and off. In our case, it’s only unlock and not lock. We tried everything, even remove the battery cables and short them together for 15 minutes to reset the electrical system.